Are you wearing the wrong size bra?

A bra is the most important garment of every woman’s wardrobe. But according to industry experts, 70 to 80 per cent of women wear the wrong bra size. That’s eight out of 10 women!

Sadly, when women get to a certain age their bustline drops, which creates a short-waisted, matronly effect making them look older. So if you’re part of the 80 per cent wearing the wrong bra size, it’s more than likely that your bra is making you look old.

A properly fitting bra will create a smooth line, promote better posture and provide comfortable breast support. It can also reverse aging.  The right bra size “literally performs miracles,” Oprah says. “It can make you look 10, even 20 pounds lighter.” So it’s imperative to get the right fit.

Pregnancy, fluctuating weight and aging can all change a woman’s breast size. Ideally, your breasts should sit midway between the shoulders and elbows, so it’s important to get fitted at least every six to 12 months to determine your correct size.

It’s also important to replace your bras every 12 months because they lose their shape and elasticity from daily wear and tear. So you either get professionally fitted or you need to know how to measure yourself for a bra.

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But for many women, bra shopping is right up there with jeans when it comes to their least favourite shopping experiences. Many also falsely believe that we remain the same size forever. We don’t.

Getting professionally measured will help you determine your true bra size. All department stores and specialty boutiques have professional bra fitters. But if that’s not an option, or you’re not comfortable with being measured, you need to know how to measure yourself for a bra.

Here’s how.

HOW TO MEASURE FOR A BRA

Are you wearing the wrong size?

You’re wearing the wrong bra size if:

• Your breasts spill out over your cup (usually happens if you’ve reduced the band size)
• Breast tissue spills out on the sides (usually a sign of a too-small cup or a cup shape mismatch). Increase the cup size or look for a wider underwire shape for greater containment.
• The cups don’t cover the entire breast with a smooth and uplifted appearance
• There are unsightly lines and bulges on your back and under your arms
• There are painful indentations and red marks on your shoulders.
• The back band rides up (usually means the bra is too big)
• The underwire doesn’t sit flat against your rib cage and contain all your breast tissue, particularly at the side under your arms
• The underwires dig in or rub (usually because the band is too big so it moves and slips)
• Or you’re suffering headaches, back, neck and shoulder pain.

What does a well-fitting bra look like?

This is what you should look for in a bra:

• It should feel comfortable and your breasts contained
• Lie horizontally against your back without riding up or down. If the band rides up, loosen the straps or move to a tighter hook. If that doesn’t work, go up a band size. But when you increase the band size, you’ll need to go down a cup size.
• The bridge, or the gore (where the cups meet in front) should lie flat against your chest (not float between the breasts). If it isn’t, try going down one band size or up a cup size. Alternatively, try a plunge bra, which usually has a narrower centre front.
• The band should feel secure but not so tight that it restricts breathing or hurts you.
• The underwire should sit flat against your rib cage in your inframammary fold, NOT on top of breast tissue.
• Straps should be tight enough to stay on your shoulders without digging in. (If you’re continually adjusting your straps to lift your bust, revisit your band size. If your straps consistently slide off your shoulders, it might be because your shoulders slope downwards. In this case, try a racer-back style.)
• Cups should lie flat against your breasts and cover your whole breast giving a rounded and uplifted shape.
• A new bra should feel most comfortable on the loosest set of hooks. As the band stretches over time, move to the next set of hooks and eyes. If a favourite bra begins to feel too loose, even on the tightest hooks, it’s time to get a new bra. However, some bras fit some women best on the middle or tightest hooks—and that’s okay, too!

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HERE’S HOW TO DO IT YOURSELF

The band should feel comfortable and it shouldn’t lift when you raise your arms. Additionally, 80 per cent of a bra’s support comes from the band NOT the straps.

1: Before you measure yourself for a bra, stand up straight and remove your bra. 

2: Grab a measuring tape and wrap it around your back, under your arms and shoulder blades, and directly below your breasts. This is where the band of the bra sits. Lift your breasts, if necessary, to place the measuring tape under them. Keep the tape in a steady horizontal line. The measuring tape should be snug, but not tight. 

3: Expel all the air from your lungs and take the measurement in inches as that’s the standard measurement that most lingerie companies use. Round any fractions up or down to the nearest whole inch (round down for anything less than ½ inch and up for anything over ½ inch). However, some European brands use centimetres. 

• 75cm = 29.5 inches
• 80cm = 31.5 inches
• 85cm = 33.5 inches
• 90cm = 35.5 inches
• 95cm = 37.5 inches
• 100cm = 39.5 inches
• 105cm = 41.5 inches)

4:  However, if the measurement is an odd number, round up to the next even number because most lingerie companies only offer band sizes in even numbers. For example, if your band number is 35, round up to 36. This number is your band size. 

Cup size

Your cup size is determined by the difference in inches between your band size and chest/bust measurements. 

1: Stand up straight and put on your most comfortable bra. (Professionals recommend this so that your breasts are held in the place where you want them to be.)

2: Wrap the measuring tape around your back, under your arms, and across the fullest part of your bust (across the nipples). Do not pull the tape tight or apply any pressure to the breasts. Once again, round any fractions to the nearest inch. This is your cup size.

3: Next, subtract your band size from the cup size. Every inch of difference is equal to one cup size. (See below). 

• Difference is less that ½ inch = AA cup
• 1 inch = A cup
• 2-2½ inches = B cup
• 2½ to 3½ inches = C cup
• 3½ inches to 4½ inches = D cup
• 5-6 inches = DD or E (in French brands an E cup equals a DD)
• 6 inches = F cup
• 7 inches = FF cup
• 8 inches = G cup

NOTE: Round up to the next cup size if your measurements are in-between sizes. The cup size is more flexible than the band size, so it’s better to go for a larger cup size to prevent spillage.

Bra size

Now, combine your band size and cup size so you have a number followed by a letter. For example, if your band-size measurement was 36 and your cup letter was C, your bra size would be 36C. This is your benchmark measurement, but there’s still a bit of tweaking to get a perfect fit. (See sister sizes below). 

A word of caution: Many women mistakenly choose a bra with a band size that is too big and a cup size that is too small. Bottom line: double check the size of each bra, and if you’re really confused keep a conversion table on hand while you shop.

A new bra should feel most comfortable on the loosest set of hooks. And as the band stretches over time, tighten the setting. If a favourite bra begins to feel too loose, even on the tightest hooks, it’s time to get a new one. However, some bras fit some women best on the middle or tightest hooks — and that’s okay too.

The perfect fit is the bra that is most comfortable for YOU, not the measurement. 

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SISTER SIZES

If you think you’re still wearing the wrong size there’s another concept you need to know about when you measure yourself for a bra: sister sizes.

Sister sizes are bra sizes that have the same cup volume. For example, 34C and 32D are sister sizes. So are 28E and 30D, or 36B, 34C and 32D.

Basically: As you go down a band size, you go up a cup size, and vice versa. Check out this chart for a complete list (all sizes in a row are sister sizes and will have the same cup volume).

Understanding how sister sizes work will make it easier to figure out your correct size as you try on different bras. You might find that a 34B has just the right cup volume for your bust but is a little too loose in the band. In that case, you need the sister size with a smaller band — a 32C.

On the other hand, if you find the band is way too tight, you could go up a band size and down a cup size to get the same volume, and end up with 36A. But this is highly unlikely. Most women need to go up a cup size, not down. And down a band size, not up.

For more details, visit:

• Understanding how a bra should fit
• Signs of good and poor bra fit
• Bra Size Calculator UK